645am OBS, Friday, March 28th
Another Gorgeous dawn. A mix of calm to offshore land breezes early, mixing with lite onshore sea breezes towards lunch thru weekend. No advisories.
New fun North and South & tiny East trade swell. Call 596-SURF: 7a, Noon, 4pm (recap-forecast).

North Shore:
Up and rising 11 sec N to NNW. Good to excellent texture with calm to lite offshore land breezes veering to lite onshore seabreezes toward lunch. Sunset 1-3'; Rocky Pt 1-3'; Pipe 0-2'; Chuns 1-2.5'; Laniakea 2-3'+'; Ali'i Beach Park 0-2'. Clear to Scattered clouds.
West:
Up and rising 11 sec N to NNW plus the new South. Clean/glassy early morning under a slight offshore land breeze, mushing out later this morning with onshore sea breezes. Makaha is 1-2' and breaking inside. Clear.
Town:
Holding 1.5' swell at 15 sec South. Smooth with a very light breeze but midday mush coming. Queens-Canoes are mostly 1-2'; Kaisers-Rockpiles to Ala Moana to Kewalos are 1-2.5'; clear skies.
Diamond Head:
Holding 1.5' swell at 15 sec South + holding 1' trade wind swell wrap. Clean from light breezes early but ESE and seabreezes coming toward lunch. Surf's 1-2.5' maybe an odd 3' set. Scattered clouds. Packed.
Sandy's:
Up on a north wrap. Holding South + holding 1' trade wind swell wrap. Surf's clean for now but watch for a sea breezes to mush things out toward midday. Full Pt/Half Pt are 1-2'+. Shorebreak is 1-2'+ and spread out across the beach. Mostly clear.
East Makapu'u:
Up on a north wrap. Holding small trade swell. Mostly smooth due to a very light breeze early, mushing out later in the morning. Surf's 1-2' only in the shore break and spread throughout the bay. Scattered clouds.Winds
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes
midday sea breezes
5-10mph ENE Trade
midday sea breezes
5-10mph Variables to sea-breezes
midday onshore
5-15mph SSW Kona
5-15mph SSE
North
Primary
Up & Rising 12s NHaw: 2-3
Face: 3-5
Secondary
Rising Afternoon 14s NNEHaw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Fair to good
some + later
Primary

Haw: 2-3+
Face: 3-5+
Secondary
Up & holding 12s NNEHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Secondary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair
Primary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary
NoneHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair
Primary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
Fair
West
Primary
Up & Rising 12s NHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Secondary
Up & Rising 19s SSWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Fair to good
Primary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary
Up & holding 18s SSWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair
Primary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
bumpy
Primary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Secondary

Haw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
bumpy
South
Primary

Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Secondary
Rising Afternoon 21s SSWHaw: 0-1.5
Face: 0-2
Smooth Am-mushy Pm
Primary
Up & Rising 19s SSWHaw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Secondary

Haw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Smooth Am-mushy Pm
Primary
Up & holding 18s SSWHaw: 1-2 occ +
Face: 1-3 occ +
Secondary

Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Smooth early-mushy later
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary
None NONEHaw: 0
Face: 0
bumpy
east
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary
Up & holding 12s NNEHaw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Smooth early-mushy later
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary

Haw: 1-2+
Face: 1-3+
Smooth early-mushy later
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Good
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary

Haw: 1-1.5
Face: 1-2
Good
Primary

Haw: 1 occ 2
Face: 1-2 occ 3
Secondary

Haw: 1-2
Face: 1-3
Fair to good

Current Swells:
Friday 03/28Primary: Up & Rising 12s N surf @2-3
Secondary: Holding 15s SSW surf @1-2 occ +
Third: Holding 8s E surf @1 occ 2

Marine Warnings:
Friday 03/28None.

Sailing Report:
Friday 03/28Poor to Fair due to light Variables with veering to sea breezes mix toward lunch into the afternoon (for the next 5 days)

Diving Report:
Friday 03/28North shores: Fair overall esp. for top deeper zones tho' a small North is causing some surges; glassy to light offshores early. West: Good due to tiny surf and calm to light winds. South: Fair to good esp for deeper diver due to a new small south and lite winds. East: Very Good for most top zones due to small wind and north swells and lite winds.
Oahu
Maui
Kauai
Big Island
Weather
Surf Advisory and Warning CriteriaLocation/shoreline Advisory Warning
North-Facing Shores- 15 Feet faces (8' Local) 25 Feet faces (15' local)
West-Facing Shores - 12 Feet (7' local) 20 Feet (12' local)
West-Facing- Big Is.- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 12 Feet (7' local)
South-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
East-Facing Shores- 8 Feet (4'+ local) 15 Feet (8' local)
Big Picture
INACTIVE.Get the latest on the tropics at www.hurricanes.gov
The Central Pacific Hurricane Center outlook for the 2017 Central Pacific Hurricane Season calls for 5 to 8 tropical cyclones to either develop or cross into the Central Pacific with a 40% chance for an above-normal season, a 40% chance for a normal season, and a 20% chance for a below-normal season. An average season has 4 to 5 tropical cyclones, which include tropical depressions, tropical storms, and hurricanes.
A tropical depression forms when a low-pressure area is accompanied by thunderstorms that produce a circular wind flow with maximum sustained winds below 39 mph. An upgrade to a tropical storm occurs when cyclonic circulation becomes more organized and maximum sustained winds gust between 39 mph and 73 mph. A tropical storm is then upgraded into Category 1 hurricane status as maximum sustained winds increase to between 74 mph and 95 mph. (The highest classification in the scale, Category 5, is reserved for storms with winds exceeding 156 mph).
Tropical cyclones go by many names around the world, and the terminology can get confusing. Once a tropical cyclone strengthens to the point where it has gale-force winds—39 mph or greater—it becomes a tropical storm. A storm that reaches tropical storm strength usually gets its own name to help us quickly identify it in forecasts and warnings. Once a tropical storm begins producing sustained winds of around 75 mph, we call the storm a typhoon in the western Pacific near Asia and a hurricane in the oceans on either side of North America. A “typhoon” and a “hurricane” are the same kind of storm, they just go by different names…it’s only a matter of geography.
NWS criteria for High Surf Advisories & Warnings.
In coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i, the NWS uses the criteria below for the issuance of High Surf Advisories & Warnings in coordination with civil defense agencies & water safety organizations in Hawai`i.
All surf height observations & forecasts are for the full face surf height, from the trough to the crest of the wave.
Advisory and Warning Criteria Location
Warning North-Facing Shores 15 Feet 25 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Remaining Islands 12 Feet 20 Feet
West-Facing Shores - Big Island 8 Feet 12 Feet
South-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
East-Facing Shores 8 Feet 15 Feet
'Travel Time' Buoy 51101 to Waimea Buoy. Distance: 269 nautical miles (~310 miles). Angle: 307 deg
Wave Wave Wave Depth Wave Direction (deg)----------
Period Length Speed Shallow 295, 305, 315, 325, 335, 345, 355
(s) (ft) (nm/h) (ft) Travel Time (hours)----------
10sec. 512. 15. 256. 17.3, 17.7, 17.6, 16.9, 15.7, 14.0, 11.9
12sec. 737. 18. 369. 14.5, 14.8, 14.6, 14.0, 13.0, 11.6, 9.9
14sec. 1003. 21. 502. 12.4, 12.7, 12.5, 12.0, 11.2, 10.0, 8.5
16sec. 1310. 24. 655. 10.8, ,1 1.1, 11.0, 10.5, 9.8, 8.7, 7.4
18sec. 1658. 27. 829. 9.6, 9.8, 9.8, 9.4, 8.7, 7.8, 6.6
20sec. 2047. 30. 1024. 8.7 8.9 8.8 8.4 7.8 7.0 5.9
22sec. 2477. 33. 1239. 7.9 8.1 8.0 7.7 7.1 6.3 5.4
24sec. 2948. 36. 1474. 7.2 7.4 7.3 7.0 6.5 5.8 4.9
Tropical Storms - wind 39-73 mph (34-63 kt)
Category 1 - winds 74-95 mph (64-82 kt)
Category 2 -winds 96-110 mph (83-95 kt)
Category 3 -winds 111-130 mph (96-113 kt)
Category 4 - winds 131-155 mph (114-135 kt)
Category 5 -winds 156 mph and up (135+ kt)
Please visit the Central Pacific Hurricane Center website at www.weather.gov/cphc for the most recent bulletins.
ENSO is a single climate phenomenon, it has three states or phases. The two opposite phases, “El Niño” and “La Niña,” require certain changes in both the ocean and the atmosphere because ENSO is a coupled climate phenomenon. “Neutral” is in the middle of the continuum. The MJO (Madden-Julian Oscillation) is an eastward moving disturbance of clouds, rainfall, winds, and pressure that traverses the planet in the tropics and returns to its initial starting point in 30 to 60 days, on average, unlike ENSO which is stationary. In a nutshell, more active means more surf.
Kelvin wave (A Kelvin wave is a wave in the ocean or atmosphere that balances the Earth's Coriolis force against a topographic boundary such as a coastline, or a waveguide such as the equator. A feature of a Kelvin wave is that it is non-dispersive, i.e., the phase speed of the wave crests is equal to the group speed of the wave energy for all frequencies. This means that it retains its shape as it moves in the alongshore direction over time.)
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